Rider Stories: Amtrak Makes Cycling the Driftless Region a Breeze

It’s hard to compete with a bicycle to explore nature at a scenic pace, and Southwest Wisconsin is an incredible biking destination with abundant trails. As a regular cyclist, I’ve long anticipated the Elroy-Sparta State Trail on my list of future adventures. With a couple of free days this August, I jumped at the chance to experience the first rail-to-trail conversion in the United States.

Planning the trip involved the logistics of “bikepacking”: any necessary provisions would be carried with me while riding. Seeking the freedom to travel without a car, I booked a ticket on Amtrak’s Empire Builder from the Twin Cities to La Crosse, WI, one of the closest stops to the trail. Amtrak’s capacity to carry bikes on this route is limited and often sold out in advance, as I discovered when buying my tickets, so I decided to rent a bike upon arrival.

Just two blocks away from the La Crosse station, Wrench & Roll provided a trustworthy bike (and helmet) for the trip. This is a new storefront for co-owner Joe Neumann’s business, and he is seeing benefits from being close to the train, he told me. I set off just after lunchtime via the La Crosse River State Trail. Prairies, wetlands, and family farms passed me in the afternoon sun.

Seeking a challenge, I completed my 100-mile trip in just two days, though more casual riders would find plenty of friendly stops along the way to extend their time. I biked east from La Crosse and spent the night at the clean and comfortable Mid-Trail Motel in Wilton, WI. At first, I continued past Wilton to see all three of the rock tunnels that make this trail famous. As daylight waned, I turned around just before Kendall, WI, looking forward to a good night’s sleep and a warm meal at the nearby Hitchin’ Post restaurant. On the second day, I headed back to La Crosse via the same route, stopping a bit more frequently for photos and snacks. Even on a bike trail, you’re thankfully never far from a Kwik Trip in Wisconsin.

By early afternoon, I returned my bicycle at Wrench & Roll and freshened up. A couple of hours remained before the Amtrak Borealis would bring me back to the Twin Cities, so I took a short bus ride to downtown La Crosse and sipped an afternoon cocktail at La Crosse Distilling Co. It was a well-earned reward after my ride, and my on-time train arrived back in St. Paul by 7 pm.

What could have made this trip even better? More capacity along the Twin Cities to Chicago route, with more frequent service and space on trains. In both directions, conductors reminded passengers the train was completely sold out. More service would have also given me peace of mind about getting home if I hit an unexpected delay. Regardless, Amtrak’s current service still makes this trip a great way to get outside and explore this beautiful part of our region.